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Any uneven spots. 24. Continue vibrating until the concrete is level. 38 Tiles 25. Cover the concrete and allow it to cure one to two days, depending on the temperature. 27. Remove the screws. 28. Remove the boards. Sometimes the tiles 26. After the concrete has cured sufficiently, remove the tape that covers the screws. will slip out easily, so try to remove as few boards as possible. This will make it easier to reassemble the mold later. Tiles 39 29. Slip a putty knife under each tile, being careful not to scratch them.

Remember, the bottom of the mold will be the top of the table. Acrylic caulk is used in this project because it will be covered with fiberglass resin after it cures. In projects where the caulk will make direct contact with the concrete, 100-percent silicone caulk is used because silicon doesn’t stick to concrete. 26. Use a 1-inch diameter pipe or dowel to create a smooth 1-inch radius. The idea is to create an angle of caulk so the finished tabletop won’t have a sharp edge. 25. Apply a heavy bead of acrylic caulk around the inside corner of the mold.

Coat the inside of the cells with a mold hardboard, then build 18-inch square cells as shown in the previous example. release. Note: Do not paint the hardboard with fiberglass resin because it won’t be as smooth as the oiled hardboard surface. 5. Fill and vibrate the cells as in the previous 3. Continue building one cell at a time until you reach the end. example. Vibrate as much air out of the concrete as possible. Tiles 43 6. Smooth the exposed surface. Filling “Bug Holes” 1. Place the tile on a flat and level surface.

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CM 46

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