Download e-book for kindle: Climbing Anchors (How to Climb Series) (2nd Edition) by John Long, Bob Gaines

By John Long, Bob Gaines

ISBN-10: 0762723262

ISBN-13: 9780762723263

The great consultant to anchoring structures for rock climbers.

Climbing Anchors offers the main complete, up to date, and easy-to-understand info on the best way to position defense and build safe anchors to protect your lifestyles. John lengthy, the writer of the definitive tutorial handbook find out how to Rock Climb!, applies a similar transparent, concise, and interesting prose to this up-to-date version, illustrated with greater than a hundred pictures through expert mountain climbing advisor and teacher Bob Gaines.
Learn how one can position and configure strong, safe anchors in a number of genuine global mountaineering events and notice the professionals and cons of many techniques. usual anchors, passive chocks, mechanical chocks, mounted apparatus, knots, belay anchors, toprope anchors, and rappel anchors are all mentioned in detail.
And, for the 1st time, the the most important dynamics of equalization and fall forces are completely investigated, together with an research of rigging structures. exams performed particularly for this ebook element the genuine functionality parameters of the cordelette, sliding X, and equalette, instead of the “traditional wisdom” that guided offerings within the past—and was once usually wrong.
Based at the authors’ mixed years of expertise, mountaineering Anchors offers all of the crucial wisdom wanted for climbers to create secure, basic, and effective mountaineering anchoring systems.

Table of contents on the finish of the publication, for matching pdf web page numbers. textual content is searchable (adobe acrobat clearscan).

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Extra info for Climbing Anchors (How to Climb Series) (2nd Edition)

Example text

Good endwise placement-flu�h contact on both ends, well seated and bomb�r. Set it well and you·re good to go Tricams The beauty of the Tricam is its ability to work in both parallel and constricting cracks, and its uncanny knack for fitting where nothing else can. The Tricam design is meant to create a stable tripod with the two parallel camming rails flat against one side of the crack, and the fulcrum or "stinger" point contacting the opposite side, preferably i n a dimple of small feature in the stone.

Cams are always loaded m the best possible pldne of rotat1on. mmec! d out, but the othe� look better. Flex1bl�rstemmed units were des1gned for honzontal placements like th1s Given th at d climber Will probably pass over thiS placement, or will bela)' below 1t. { a sohd-stemmecl •Jnit hke th1c; one . Here: the problem has bean solved by tyln!! \'en when all th1ngs cher;k out, honzontal placements tend to be the most problematic for SLCDs. �''IN PC;"IIEI_L T11P. >ntal ram placement l:i tc:. g-J w1th a flt>XIl'le­ stemmed unit.

Different makes have different specs, of course; but all American- or British-made SLCDs employ quality materials and craftsmanship, so the relative strength of rigid stems versus flexible stems often is overstated. d The act1on of the flexible units 1s less positive because of th& Inherent flex This can make placement and removal more difficult, particularly when a chmber is fagged . It is impossible for a flexible cable to load the cams as predicl:dbly as a ng1d stem does-or so it would seem Wild Country claims to have overcom e thi� problem on their Technical Fnends, usmg stronger spnngs ancl 1ncremental mcreases in cam-head w1dth that resist rotation as a climber moves past the placement.

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Climbing Anchors (How to Climb Series) (2nd Edition) by John Long, Bob Gaines

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